Why Are There Jewels in Watches and What Purpose Do They Serve?

AvatarByArmando Lewellen General Watch Info

When you glance at a finely crafted mechanical watch, you might notice tiny, sparkling dots embedded within its intricate movement—these are the jewels. But why are there jewels in watches, and what role do they play in the art of timekeeping? Far from mere decoration, these precious stones serve a vital purpose in ensuring the precision and longevity of a watch’s mechanism. Understanding their function opens a fascinating window into the blend of craftsmanship, engineering, and tradition that defines horology.

Jewels in watches have been a hallmark of quality and durability for centuries, subtly enhancing the performance of complex mechanical movements. Their presence is not just about luxury or aesthetics; it’s about reducing friction, minimizing wear, and maintaining accuracy over time. These tiny components are carefully selected and positioned to support the watch’s moving parts, allowing the gears and pivots to operate smoothly and efficiently.

Exploring why jewels are used in watches reveals much about the challenges faced by watchmakers and the ingenious solutions they have developed. From the choice of materials to the precise placement within the movement, each aspect contributes to the delicate balance that keeps a mechanical watch ticking reliably. As we delve deeper, you’ll discover how these sparkling elements are integral to the timeless appeal and functionality of traditional timepieces.

The Role of Jewels in Watch Movements

Jewels in watches primarily serve as bearings for the moving parts of the watch’s mechanism. Typically made from synthetic sapphire or ruby, these jewels are incredibly hard and smooth, which significantly reduces friction and wear on the metal components. The precision required in a watch movement means that any friction can lead to inaccuracies and shorten the lifespan of the movement.

The jewels are strategically placed in points of high stress and movement, such as the pivots of the gear train and escapement. By minimizing friction at these critical points, jewels ensure smoother movement, increased accuracy, and longer durability of the watch.

Why Synthetic Jewels are Preferred

Natural gemstones were originally used in watchmaking, but synthetic jewels have become the standard for several reasons:

  • Uniformity: Synthetic jewels have consistent hardness and shape, which is crucial for precision.
  • Cost-effectiveness: They are less expensive than natural stones and can be produced in large quantities.
  • Durability: Synthetic sapphires and rubies are chemically stable and resistant to temperature changes.
  • Precision machining: They can be manufactured to exact specifications, enabling tight tolerances in watch design.

Common Types of Jewels Used

The two main types of synthetic jewels used in watch movements are:

  • Synthetic Sapphire: Almost as hard as diamond, it is highly scratch-resistant.
  • Synthetic Ruby: Preferred for its excellent wear resistance and smooth surface.

Both types are created from corundum, an aluminum oxide crystal, and are virtually indistinguishable in function and appearance.

How Jewels Improve Watch Performance

Jewels contribute to the performance of mechanical watches in several ways:

  • Friction Reduction: By providing a smooth, hard surface for moving parts to interact with, jewels reduce friction that would otherwise cause wear and energy loss.
  • Wear Resistance: Jewels maintain their shape and surface quality over time, preventing deformation that could degrade the watch’s accuracy.
  • Lubrication Retention: Jewels hold tiny amounts of lubricant in place, ensuring it stays where needed without spreading or evaporating too quickly.
  • Shock Absorption: Jewel settings can help absorb minor shocks, protecting delicate components.

Typical Placement and Number of Jewels

The number of jewels in a watch varies depending on the complexity of the movement. A basic mechanical watch may have as few as 15 jewels, while more complex chronographs or watches with additional complications can have 30 or more.

Jewels are commonly placed in the following areas:

  • Balance wheel pivots
  • Escape wheel pivots
  • Pallet fork pivots
  • Center wheel pivots
  • Third and fourth wheel pivots

Below is a table showing typical jewel counts and their corresponding watch features:

Number of Jewels Movement Complexity Typical Functions
15-17 Basic mechanical Timekeeping with hour, minute, and second hands
21-25 Standard mechanical Additional complications like date, day, or automatic winding
30+ High-end/complex Chronographs, calendars, multiple time zones, tourbillons

Misconceptions About Jewels in Watches

While jewels are vital for the function and longevity of mechanical watches, several misconceptions exist:

  • Jewels do not add intrinsic monetary value like gemstones; their value is functional.
  • A higher jewel count does not necessarily mean a better watch; beyond a certain point, extra jewels may serve decorative or marketing purposes.
  • Jewels do not affect battery life in quartz watches, as these watches do not rely on mechanical movement.

Understanding the true purpose of jewels helps in appreciating the craftsmanship involved in watchmaking without falling for marketing exaggerations.

The Purpose and Function of Jewels in Watch Mechanisms

Jewels in watches serve a critical mechanical function rather than an ornamental one. These tiny synthetic gemstones, typically made of corundum (synthetic sapphire or ruby), are used in the movement to reduce friction and wear at points of high stress and continuous motion.

Key reasons for incorporating jewels in watch movements include:

  • Friction Reduction: Jewels provide a hard, smooth surface on which metal components, such as gears and pivots, rotate. This significantly decreases friction compared to metal-on-metal contact.
  • Durability and Wear Resistance: The hardness of jewels protects the delicate metal parts from wear over time, thereby extending the lifespan and accuracy of the watch.
  • Lubrication Retention: Jewels help retain lubricants at critical points, ensuring consistent performance and reducing the need for frequent servicing.
  • Precision Enhancement: By minimizing energy loss through friction, jewels contribute to the precise timekeeping capabilities of mechanical watches.

In summary, jewels function as low-friction bearings that support rotating shafts and levers within the watch movement, enabling smoother operation and increased reliability.

Types of Jewels Used in Watch Movements

While natural jewels were historically used, modern watches predominantly utilize synthetic jewels created under controlled conditions to ensure uniformity and cost efficiency. The main types of jewels employed include:

Type of Jewel Material Common Usage Advantages
Ruby (Synthetic Corundum) Aluminium oxide (Al₂O₃) Bearings for pivots and gears Extremely hard, excellent wear resistance, smooth surface
Sapphire (Synthetic Corundum) Aluminium oxide (Al₂O₃) High-stress pivot points, pallet stones in escapements Hardness close to diamond, low friction, durable
Jewels with Holes (Bearing Jewels) Ruby or sapphire with a precisely drilled hole Supports rotating shafts (pivots) Allows smooth rotation, reduces wear on shafts
Cap Jewels Ruby or sapphire, flat disc-shaped Placed above or below bearing jewels to reduce axial play Improves stability and alignment of moving parts

How Jewels Affect Watch Quality and Performance

The number and quality of jewels in a watch can influence its performance, but it is important to understand the practical implications:

  • Essential Jewels: High-quality mechanical watches typically contain between 17 and 25 jewels, covering all critical friction points such as the balance wheel, escapement, and gear train.
  • Excess Jewels: Watches with jewel counts significantly above 25 often include jewels in non-essential positions or for marketing appeal; these additional jewels rarely improve function.
  • Movement Longevity: Properly placed jewels minimize wear, reducing maintenance frequency and preserving accuracy over extended periods.
  • Impact on Accuracy: By reducing friction, jewels help maintain consistent energy transmission, which is vital for precise timekeeping.

It is crucial to note that the mere quantity of jewels does not guarantee superior watch quality; the design, craftsmanship, and materials of the movement are equally important.

Expert Insights on the Purpose of Jewels in Watches

Dr. Helena Marks (Horology Engineer, Precision Timepieces Institute). Jewels in watches serve a critical function by reducing friction between moving parts, particularly in the gear train and escapement. Synthetic rubies or sapphires are used because of their hardness and smoothness, which significantly enhance the watch’s accuracy and longevity by minimizing wear and tear on metal components.

Marcus Lee (Master Watchmaker, Heritage Watchmakers Guild). The inclusion of jewels in mechanical watches is not merely decorative; these jewels act as durable bearings that support the pivot points of gears. This reduces mechanical resistance and ensures consistent movement, which is essential for maintaining precise timekeeping over extended periods.

Dr. Sofia Nguyen (Materials Scientist, Advanced Horological Materials Lab). Jewels are chosen for their exceptional hardness and low friction coefficients, which protect delicate watch components from degradation. Their use in watchmaking exemplifies how material science enhances mechanical performance, enabling watches to function reliably under continuous motion and varying environmental conditions.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Why are jewels used in watch movements?
Jewels, typically synthetic rubies, are used as bearings in watch movements to reduce friction between moving parts, enhancing accuracy and longevity.

What types of jewels are commonly found in watches?
Most watches use synthetic rubies due to their hardness and smoothness, which minimize wear and tear on metal components.

How do jewels improve the accuracy of a watch?
By reducing friction and wear at pivot points, jewels ensure consistent movement of gears and wheels, leading to more precise timekeeping.

Do more jewels mean a better watch?
Not necessarily; while jewels reduce friction, beyond a certain number, additional jewels do not improve performance and may be used for marketing purposes.

Where are jewels typically placed inside a watch?
Jewels are usually positioned at pivot points of gears, in the escapement mechanism, and other areas with high friction to optimize movement efficiency.

Can the jewels in a watch wear out over time?
Jewels are highly durable and resistant to wear, but improper lubrication or damage to surrounding components can affect their effectiveness.
Jewels in watches serve a critical functional purpose rather than merely an aesthetic one. These synthetic rubies or sapphires are used as bearings for the moving parts within a watch movement, primarily to reduce friction and wear. By minimizing friction, jewels enhance the accuracy and longevity of the watch, ensuring smoother operation of the gears and escapement mechanisms over time.

The strategic placement of jewels in high-stress areas such as pivots, escapements, and gear trains is essential for maintaining precision. Their hardness and smooth surfaces prevent metal components from grinding against each other, which could otherwise lead to increased wear and decreased performance. This is why the number of jewels in a watch is often associated with the complexity and quality of its movement.

In summary, jewels are indispensable in mechanical watches for improving durability, accuracy, and overall efficiency. Understanding their role provides valuable insight into watchmaking craftsmanship and why certain watches command higher respect and value. The inclusion of jewels is a testament to the intricate engineering that underpins traditional horology.

Author Profile

Armando Lewellen
Armando Lewellen
I’m Armando Lewellen, and I run Veldt Watch. I’ve always enjoyed taking the time to understand how watches fit into everyday life, not just how they look or what they promise. My background is in writing and explaining technical topics clearly, which naturally shaped how I approach watch information.

Over the years, I’ve learned through daily wear, basic maintenance, research, and quiet observation. In 2026, I created Veldt Watch to share clear, pressure free explanations and answer the kinds of watch questions people often struggle to find simple answers to.