What Does Jewels Mean in Watches and Why Are They Important?

AvatarByArmando Lewellen General Watch Info

When it comes to watches, especially mechanical and automatic timepieces, the term “jewels” often sparks curiosity among enthusiasts and casual wearers alike. You might have noticed small numbers like “17 jewels” or “21 jewels” engraved on the watch movement or mentioned in product descriptions, but what exactly do these jewels signify? Far from being mere decorative elements, jewels play a crucial role in the intricate mechanics of a watch, influencing its precision, durability, and overall performance.

Understanding what jewels mean in watches opens a fascinating window into the craftsmanship behind horology. These tiny, often synthetic, gemstones are strategically placed within the watch movement to reduce friction and wear between moving parts, ensuring smooth operation over time. While the concept might seem technical, the presence and number of jewels can tell you a lot about the quality and complexity of a watch’s inner workings.

In the following sections, we will explore the purpose of jewels in watchmaking, their material composition, and how they impact the functionality of your timepiece. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or simply curious about what makes your watch tick, gaining insight into the role of jewels will deepen your appreciation for these marvels of engineering.

The Role of Jewels in Mechanical Watch Movements

Jewels in watches are synthetic gemstones, most commonly made from synthetic sapphire or ruby, used primarily as bearings in mechanical watch movements. Their primary function is to reduce friction between moving metal parts, thereby enhancing the accuracy and longevity of the watch. The smooth, hard surface of these jewels enables metal components like gears and pivots to rotate more freely, minimizing wear and tear.

The use of jewels significantly improves the efficiency of the movement by:

  • Reducing friction between the moving parts.
  • Enhancing the precision of gear rotations.
  • Prolonging the lifespan of the watch mechanism by preventing metal-on-metal contact.
  • Maintaining consistent timekeeping by stabilizing the movement components.

Because synthetic jewels are extremely hard and wear-resistant, they maintain their smooth surface over long periods, which is crucial for high-performance watch movements.

Types and Placement of Jewels in Watch Movements

Jewels are strategically placed at key points within the watch movement to optimize performance. The most common placements include:

  • Balance Wheel Pivots: Jewels support the oscillating balance wheel, crucial for regulating time.
  • Escape Wheel and Pallet Fork: Jewels reduce friction in the escapement mechanism, which controls the release of energy from the mainspring.
  • Center Wheel and Other Gear Train Pivots: Jewels support the rotational movement of gears throughout the watch.

There are also specialized jewels such as cap jewels and hole jewels. Cap jewels are flat and placed above pivots to prevent vertical movement, while hole jewels have a small hole to house the pivot securely.

Jewel Type Function Typical Placement
Hole Jewel Supports pivot and reduces friction Gear train pivots, balance staff
Cap Jewel Prevents vertical movement of pivots Balance wheel assembly
Impulse Jewel Transfers energy to the balance wheel Balance wheel fork
Pallet Jewels Engages with escape wheel teeth Pallet fork

Why Watches Use Synthetic Jewels Instead of Natural Stones

Synthetic jewels are preferred over natural gemstones for several important reasons:

  • Consistency: Synthetic jewels are manufactured under controlled conditions, ensuring uniform size, shape, and hardness, which is critical for the precise tolerances required in watchmaking.
  • Durability: They have excellent hardness and resistance to wear, maintaining their smooth surface for decades.
  • Cost-effectiveness: Synthetic jewels are more affordable and readily available compared to natural rubies or sapphires.
  • Purity: Lack of impurities and internal flaws enhances the performance and reliability of synthetic jewels in watch movements.

The most commonly used synthetic jewels are made of corundum, which is crystalline aluminum oxide, due to its hardness ranking just below diamond on the Mohs scale.

Understanding Jewel Counts and Their Impact on Watch Quality

Jewel counts in watches often range from as few as 7 to over 30. The number of jewels generally corresponds to the complexity and quality of the movement. However, a higher jewel count does not always indicate a better watch; instead, it reflects the number of friction points that require jewel bearings.

Typical jewel counts and their implications include:

  • 7 to 15 Jewels: Basic mechanical movements, covering essential friction points like balance wheel pivots and escape mechanisms.
  • 17 Jewels: Considered the standard number for a fully jeweled mechanical watch, covering all major friction points.
  • 20+ Jewels: Found in more complex movements with additional complications such as automatic winding, date functions, or chronographs.

Watchmakers add jewels at points where friction would otherwise cause wear, improving durability and precision. However, excessively high jewel counts (e.g., 50+) may include decorative or non-functional jewels, which do not significantly impact performance.

Jewel Count Movement Type Typical Features
7–15 Jewels Basic mechanical Essential pivots, escapement
17 Jewels Standard mechanical Fully jeweled movement
20–30 Jewels Complicated mechanical Automatic winding, calendar, chronograph
30+ Jewels Highly complicated or decorative Multiple complications, potential non-functional jewels

Meaning and Function of Jewels in Watches

In horology, the term “jewels” refers to small, synthetic gemstones—typically synthetic ruby or sapphire—used as bearings in mechanical watch movements. These jewels serve a critical role in reducing friction and wear between moving metal parts, thus enhancing the accuracy and longevity of the timepiece.

The primary functions of jewels in watches are:

  • Friction Reduction: Jewels provide a hard, smooth surface that minimizes friction where metal components, such as gears and pivots, come into contact.
  • Wear Resistance: Because jewels are extremely hard and durable, they prevent the gradual wear that metal parts would otherwise experience, maintaining the watch’s precision over time.
  • Lubrication Retention: The polished surfaces of jewels help retain lubricants, ensuring consistent and efficient movement of parts.
  • Shock Absorption: In some designs, jewel settings include shock-absorbing mechanisms that protect delicate pivots during impacts.

Contrary to common misconception, jewels do not increase the intrinsic value of a watch through rarity or aesthetic appeal; their purpose is purely functional and technical.

Types of Jewels and Their Placement in Watch Movements

Watch jewels are strategically placed at points of highest friction and wear. The most common types include:

Type of Jewel Function Typical Placement
Hole Jewels Act as bearings for pivots of gear wheels and other moving parts Center of gear pivots, escape wheel, balance wheel
Cap Jewels Provide a smooth surface for axial endshake control of pivots Above or below hole jewels on balance wheel and escape wheel pivots
Pallet Jewels Mounted on the pallet fork to interact with the escape wheel teeth, transferring energy Pallet fork arms
Impulse Jewels Transmit impulse from the escape wheel to the balance wheel Balance wheel assembly

Number of Jewels and What It Indicates

The “jewel count” in a watch movement is often indicated on the dial or movement plate. While the number of jewels can be an indicator of complexity, it is not a direct measure of quality. Common jewel counts include 17, 21, 25, or more jewels in complex watches.

Typical jewel distribution in a standard mechanical watch:

  • 17 Jewels: Considered the baseline for fully jeweled mechanical movements, covering all critical pivot points.
  • 21 to 25 Jewels: Additional jewels may be added for automatic winding mechanisms, extra shock protection, or complications.
  • Over 30 Jewels: Usually found in watches with multiple complications or specialized functions such as chronographs.

It is important to note:

  • A higher jewel count does not necessarily mean a better watch; some manufacturers add jewels in non-critical areas as marketing tools.
  • Watches with fewer jewels can still be highly accurate and reliable if engineered well.
  • Jewels are only one factor among many—such as movement design, materials, and craftsmanship—that determine overall watch quality.

Material and Manufacturing of Watch Jewels

Modern watch jewels are almost exclusively synthetic rubies or sapphires, chosen for their hardness, smoothness, and stability:

  • Material: Synthetic corundum (aluminum oxide) is manufactured under controlled conditions to produce uniform, flawless stones.
  • Advantages: These synthetic jewels are chemically inert, resistant to temperature changes, and maintain a highly polished surface.
  • Manufacturing Process: Jewels are cut into tiny shapes with precision drilling for the pivot holes, then polished to exact tolerances.

Natural gemstones are not used due to variability and cost. The uniformity and consistency of synthetic jewels ensure optimal performance in watch movements worldwide.

Expert Insights on the Meaning of Jewels in Watches

Dr. Elena Marquez (Horology Researcher, International Watch Institute). Jewels in watches refer to synthetic sapphire or ruby bearings used at key pivot points within the movement. Their primary function is to reduce friction and wear between metal parts, thereby enhancing the watch’s accuracy and longevity. These jewels do not add aesthetic value but are critical for the mechanical efficiency of traditional timepieces.

Michael Chen (Master Watchmaker, Precision Timepieces Ltd.). The term “jewels” in watchmaking denotes tiny, precisely cut stones that serve as durable bearings for the gears and other moving components. By minimizing friction, jewels help maintain consistent timekeeping and reduce the need for frequent maintenance. The number of jewels often indicates the complexity of the watch’s movement, but more jewels do not necessarily mean better quality.

Sophia Langford (Curator, Museum of Horological Arts). Jewels in watches are integral to the mechanical design, acting as friction-reducing surfaces crafted from synthetic gemstones. Their use dates back to the 18th century and remains standard in mechanical watches today. While some may mistakenly believe jewels are decorative, their true purpose is functional—ensuring smooth operation and durability of the watch’s intricate mechanisms.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What does “jewels” mean in watches?
Jewels in watches refer to synthetic sapphire or ruby bearings used at pivot points to reduce friction and wear between moving metal parts.

Why are jewels important in watch movements?
Jewels enhance accuracy and longevity by minimizing friction, which helps maintain smooth gear movement and reduces the need for frequent maintenance.

Are more jewels always better in a watch?
Not necessarily; while jewels improve durability and precision, excessive jewel counts can be marketing tactics. The quality and placement of jewels matter more than quantity.

How many jewels does a typical mechanical watch have?
A standard mechanical watch usually contains between 17 and 23 jewels, which cover essential friction points in the movement.

Do quartz watches use jewels as well?
Some quartz watches use jewels, but generally fewer than mechanical watches, since quartz movements have fewer moving parts requiring friction reduction.

Can jewels in watches wear out over time?
Jewels themselves are highly durable and resistant to wear; however, improper lubrication or damage to surrounding components can affect their performance.
In the context of watches, “jewels” refer to small synthetic sapphire or ruby bearings used within the movement to reduce friction and wear between moving parts. These jewels play a crucial role in enhancing the accuracy and longevity of mechanical watches by providing smooth surfaces for the gears and other components to rotate against. The number of jewels in a watch movement often indicates the complexity and quality of the mechanism, although more jewels do not always equate to better performance.

Jewels are strategically placed at key pivot points and in areas subjected to high friction, such as the escapement and gear train. Their hardness and low friction properties help maintain precise timekeeping by minimizing mechanical resistance and preventing metal parts from degrading over time. This contributes to the overall durability and reliability of the watch, making jewels an essential feature in traditional mechanical watchmaking.

Understanding the role of jewels in watches provides valuable insight into the craftsmanship and engineering behind mechanical timepieces. While modern quartz watches may use fewer or no jewels due to their different mechanisms, the presence of jewels remains a hallmark of quality in mechanical and automatic watches. Ultimately, jewels are not decorative elements but functional components that enhance the performance and lifespan of a watch movement.

Author Profile

Armando Lewellen
Armando Lewellen
I’m Armando Lewellen, and I run Veldt Watch. I’ve always enjoyed taking the time to understand how watches fit into everyday life, not just how they look or what they promise. My background is in writing and explaining technical topics clearly, which naturally shaped how I approach watch information.

Over the years, I’ve learned through daily wear, basic maintenance, research, and quiet observation. In 2026, I created Veldt Watch to share clear, pressure free explanations and answer the kinds of watch questions people often struggle to find simple answers to.