Why Do Watches Have Jewels and What Purpose Do They Serve?

AvatarByArmando Lewellen General Watch Info

Watches are more than just instruments that tell time—they are intricate marvels of engineering, blending precision with artistry. Among the many fascinating features tucked inside a mechanical watch, one element often piques curiosity: the presence of tiny jewels. These shimmering points aren’t mere decoration; they serve a crucial purpose in the watch’s complex mechanism.

Understanding why watches have jewels opens a window into the delicate balance of craftsmanship and functionality that defines traditional watchmaking. These jewels play a vital role in enhancing accuracy, durability, and the overall longevity of the timepiece. As we delve deeper, you’ll discover how these small components contribute significantly to the smooth operation of a watch’s movement, making them indispensable despite their modest size.

In exploring this topic, we’ll uncover the history, function, and significance of watch jewels, shedding light on a detail that often goes unnoticed but is essential to the heartbeat of every fine mechanical watch. Whether you’re a seasoned horology enthusiast or simply curious about what makes watches tick, this journey into the world of watch jewels promises to be both enlightening and engaging.

The Role of Jewels in Reducing Friction and Wear

Jewels in watches serve a critical function by minimizing friction between moving parts. The tiny pivots of the gears and other components rotate at high speeds and must maintain smooth motion to ensure accuracy. Without jewels, the metal parts would rub directly against each other, causing wear and energy loss.

Synthetic jewels, typically made from corundum (a form of sapphire or ruby), are used because of their hardness and smoothness. These characteristics allow them to:

  • Provide a hard, smooth surface that reduces friction
  • Resist wear and deformation over time
  • Maintain lubrication effectively due to their low absorption rates

By supporting the pivots and other moving components, jewels help maintain consistent performance and extend the lifespan of the movement.

Types of Jewels Used in Watch Movements

Different jewels are used depending on their location and function within the watch mechanism. The most common types include:

  • Hole Jewels: These have a small hole through which the gear pivots pass. They act as bearings to support the rotating shafts.
  • Cap Jewels: Placed above or below hole jewels to provide an additional bearing surface and reduce end-shake (axial movement).
  • Pallet Jewels: Part of the escapement, these jewels interact with the escape wheel to control the release of energy.
  • Impulse Jewels: Attached to the balance wheel, they receive impulses from the pallet fork to keep the watch oscillating.

Each type of jewel is precisely manufactured and positioned to optimize the movement’s efficiency.

How Jewels Impact Watch Accuracy and Durability

Jewels contribute significantly to a watch’s accuracy by reducing friction and wear, which can cause timing errors. The smoother the interaction between parts, the less energy is lost, allowing the movement to maintain consistent oscillations.

Additionally, jewels help in:

  • Maintaining Lubrication: Their smooth surfaces hold oils in place longer, reducing the frequency of servicing.
  • Preventing Metal Fatigue: By isolating metal parts from direct contact, jewels reduce the risk of deformation and breakage.
  • Enhancing Shock Resistance: Properly set jewels can absorb minor shocks, protecting delicate components.
Aspect Impact of Jewels Result
Friction Reduction Hard, smooth surfaces minimize rubbing Improved efficiency and longer lifespan
Wear Resistance Jewels resist deformation under pressure Maintained accuracy over time
Lubrication Retention Jewels hold oils effectively Less frequent servicing required
Shock Absorption Jewels can cushion minor impacts Protection of delicate components

Common Misconceptions About Jewels in Watches

It is important to clarify certain myths regarding jewels in watches:

  • More Jewels Does Not Mean Better Quality: While jewels reduce friction, beyond a certain number (usually around 17-25), additional jewels serve minimal functional purpose and may be decorative.
  • Jewels Are Not Precious Stones: Despite their appearance, synthetic jewels are manufactured specifically for their mechanical properties, not value.
  • Jewels Do Not Make Watches Expensive by Themselves: The cost of jewels is relatively low; watch price is influenced more by craftsmanship, materials, and brand prestige.

Understanding these points helps in evaluating watch movements more accurately, focusing on performance rather than jewel count alone.

The Function and Purpose of Jewels in Watches

Watches use synthetic jewels, primarily rubies, as integral components in their movement mechanisms. These jewels serve critical mechanical purposes rather than aesthetic ones, contributing to the durability, accuracy, and longevity of the timepiece.

Jewels are employed in watches for the following key reasons:

  • Reducing Friction: Jewels provide a hard, smooth surface for metal parts, such as gears and pivots, to rotate against. This reduces friction between moving parts, minimizing wear and tear.
  • Enhancing Durability: Because jewels are extremely hard and resistant to abrasion, they help extend the lifespan of the watch’s movement by preventing metal components from wearing down quickly.
  • Maintaining Accuracy: By reducing friction and wear, jewels help ensure consistent movement, which is vital for keeping precise time.
  • Supporting High-Speed Movement: Jewels can withstand the high rotational speeds of certain components, such as the balance wheel pivots, without degrading performance.

Overall, jewels act as durable bearings that maintain the smooth operation of the watch’s internal mechanism.

Common Types of Jewels Used and Their Placement

The jewels used in watches are synthetic corundum, mainly rubies, chosen for their hardness and smoothness. These synthetic jewels are preferred because they offer consistent quality and performance without the cost and variability of natural stones.

Jewels in Watch Movement Function Typical Placement
Hole Jewels Provide a low-friction bearing surface for rotating pivots At gear and wheel pivots throughout the movement
Cap Jewels Prevent vertical movement of pivots, ensuring stability Placed above or below pivots, often on the balance wheel staff
Pallet Jewels Interact with the escape wheel to regulate energy release On the pallet fork in the escapement mechanism
Impulse Jewels Transmit impulses to the balance wheel for oscillation Mounted on the balance wheel staff

Each type of jewel is carefully positioned to optimize the watch’s mechanical performance and reduce wear in critical areas.

Impact of Jewels on Watch Quality and Value

The number and quality of jewels in a watch movement can influence both its functional quality and market value, though these factors must be understood in context.

  • Functionality: More jewels can mean better friction reduction and increased durability, especially in complex movements with many moving parts. However, beyond a certain point (typically around 17 to 23 jewels), additional jewels may serve mostly decorative or marketing purposes rather than practical functions.
  • Movement Complexity: Watches with complications such as chronographs, calendars, or automatics often require more jewels to support additional gears and components.
  • Perceived Value: Jewel counts are sometimes used in marketing to suggest higher quality, but a well-engineered movement with fewer jewels can outperform one with more jewels but poorer design.
  • Maintenance Considerations: Jewels reduce wear, which can lower maintenance frequency and costs over the watch’s lifetime.

Ultimately, jewel count should be considered alongside other factors such as brand reputation, craftsmanship, and movement design when evaluating watch quality and value.

Expert Perspectives on the Role of Jewels in Watches

Dr. Helena Marks (Horology Research Scientist, Swiss Watch Institute). Jewels in watches primarily serve as low-friction pivot points for the gear train and other moving parts. By reducing friction, synthetic rubies or sapphires help maintain accuracy and longevity, preventing wear that would otherwise degrade the precision of mechanical movements over time.

James Caldwell (Master Watchmaker, Caldwell Horology Workshop). The incorporation of jewels is a critical design choice in mechanical watches. These jewels act as durable bearings that support rotating shafts, minimizing metal-to-metal contact. This not only enhances the smooth operation of the watch but also significantly extends the service intervals by reducing mechanical wear.

Dr. Priya Singh (Materials Engineer, Advanced Timepiece Technologies). From a materials science perspective, jewels used in watches are synthetic corundum, chosen for their exceptional hardness and resistance to abrasion. Their use in watch movements ensures stable performance under continuous motion and varying environmental conditions, contributing to the overall reliability and precision of the timepiece.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What are jewels in a watch movement?
Jewels are synthetic sapphire or ruby bearings used in watch movements to reduce friction between moving parts, enhancing accuracy and longevity.

Why do watches require jewels?
Jewels provide a hard, smooth surface that minimizes wear and tear on metal components, ensuring consistent performance and durability over time.

How many jewels does a typical mechanical watch have?
Most mechanical watches contain between 17 and 25 jewels, strategically placed at key pivot points to optimize movement efficiency.

Do more jewels mean a better watch?
Not necessarily; while jewels reduce friction, excessive jewel counts can be unnecessary. Quality and design of the movement are more important than the number of jewels alone.

Are jewels purely functional or also decorative?
Jewels serve a primarily functional role in reducing friction and wear, though their polished appearance can also contribute to the aesthetic appeal of the movement.

Can jewels in watches wear out over time?
Jewels are highly durable and resistant to wear, but improper lubrication or mechanical damage can affect their performance, necessitating maintenance or replacement.
Watches have jewels primarily to reduce friction and wear within the movement’s intricate mechanical components. These synthetic jewels, typically made from ruby or sapphire, serve as durable, low-friction bearing surfaces for the pivots of gears and other moving parts. By minimizing friction, jewels enhance the accuracy and longevity of the watch, ensuring smoother operation over extended periods.

In addition to improving durability and precision, jewels contribute to the overall efficiency of the watch mechanism. Their hardness and resistance to wear prevent deformation under constant motion, which is critical for maintaining consistent timekeeping. The strategic placement of jewels at key points within the movement optimizes performance and reduces the need for frequent maintenance.

Ultimately, the use of jewels in watchmaking reflects a balance between craftsmanship and engineering. While the number of jewels can indicate the complexity of the movement, it is their quality and positioning that truly impact the watch’s reliability and accuracy. Understanding the role of jewels provides valuable insight into the meticulous design considerations that underpin fine mechanical watches.

Author Profile

Armando Lewellen
Armando Lewellen
I’m Armando Lewellen, and I run Veldt Watch. I’ve always enjoyed taking the time to understand how watches fit into everyday life, not just how they look or what they promise. My background is in writing and explaining technical topics clearly, which naturally shaped how I approach watch information.

Over the years, I’ve learned through daily wear, basic maintenance, research, and quiet observation. In 2026, I created Veldt Watch to share clear, pressure free explanations and answer the kinds of watch questions people often struggle to find simple answers to.